Doggie Door/Bell Training
Below is the link to the doggie doors we use that fit our adult schnauzers 10-19lb in size; it’s medium-sized, flap measures 11 1/4” x 8 1/4”. The sliding glass doggie door works great for families wanting less permanent options. Lastly, it's possible to train your puppy to use a bell to alert you when they want to go outside if you don't have a doggie door as an option. For those wishing to go this route, there are three different types of bells; the rope bell that dangles from your door handle, the push button bell on the floor, or the bell attached to the wall. The rope bell and push button are nice and portable; you can move them from houses or different doors. The Mighty Paws bell and push bell are both options if you want to avoid hearing ringing every time the door opens. Links are provided for all three options below. All three types of bells use the same technique to train a puppy to use them; essentially, you go through the motions with your puppy of pawing at the bell every time you take them out, and they will eventually associate ringing the bell with being let out. Below is also a youtube link to a training video that shows more in-depth how to train your pup to use the bell options if you are interested in that method.
The videos below cover the routine, the first day home, and everything in between with active training. The first video shows how I like to utilize the crate to help avoid accidents and effectively potty train with a routine that fits around you and your puppy. The difference between your puppy from the one in the video is that your puppy has been litter box trained like a cat and is used to going to the bathroom on paper pellet litter. I send home a bag with some paper litter in it for you to sprinkle in an area in the yard where you plan to bring your pup out for potty breaks. For the first couple weeks, I recommend carrying the puppy out for each bathroom break and setting them onto the paper pellets, that smell is their green light to go to the bathroom and helps aid in the potty training effort.
I feed my pups two meals a day. Around 7am, they get 3 crushed Smallbatch sliders for breakfast with a small handful of MaxMeats or Jerky Treats. And then, around 3-4 pm I feed them the same 3 sliders and a small handful of Jerky. You can save the Jerky and use them as training treats at a separate time in the day. Or mix the total amount of food into three meals as she does in the video. But I love in this video how she utilizes feeding time to use the food as a reward to teach the puppy different things and create a positive experience with many different situations with their food. When they are ready for their meal, they are even more eager to work for their food, and they don’t even realize they are learning commands and whatnot. Also, you don’t have to have the puppy out with you all day. Potty breaks, 20+ min of play and/or teach something, potty break, and then back in the crate for a nap. I always set a 10min timer for bathroom breaks. This gives them ample time to go to the bathroom as many times as they need. Some puppies don’t empty their whole bladder and may go multiple times over 10 minutes. This routine really sets you up for success as almost always, once a puppy wakes from a nap or has finished playing, they go to the bathroom! This video shows the perfect routine that allows you to accomplish all you need in your day and fit play and training into the schedule. If both parents have to work or you know you’re going to be gone for a solid eight-hour workday when the puppy is so young, that’s when I recommend getting the playpen. You can set up a litter box in so you don’t have to leave your puppy in the crate all night and then again crated all day. I encourage you to watch the videos over and over before bringing your pup home. This will help you feel prepared on how to structure your schedule and training with your puppy those first days home. This will help set you both up for success!
-First Day Home, Routine
-Night Routine First Night
-The Proper Way to Use Food With Training
-Puppy Training Exercise
-Puppy Training Schedule Through Different Age Marks
The below video demonstrates how to effectively claim what is yours and off limits to your puppy. In the video, he demonstrates with food. But this technique of setting boundaries with assertive energy and mild correction can be used to teach your puppy what they aren’t allowed to have or chew on in the home, and what things belong to you.
Front Door Training
This video shows how to actively train your puppy not to walk through the front door or any door without your permission. I feel this is very important to train as dogs that don’t respect the front door have a very high chance of getting hit by a car, injured, or lost if they run off.
Next to potty training, the #1 issue every puppy has when they go home is biting as they explore the world with their mouth. Their teeth are just coming in and are very sharp. The videos below go through how to help you train your puppy not to put teeth on you.
-Leadership and Biting
-Puppy Biting Training
Month Two Training Videos
As the days/month move on, below are more videos on additional training to help your pup become well-rounded and obedient as they grow.
-Activities To Wear Them Out
-How to Use a Slip Lead
-Walking Your Puppy, Crate, Discipline
-How to Get Them to Drop Something
-Learn Their Name
These are the tools that I use to groom my own schnauzer and videos to help assist.
Straight shears - furnishings, skirt
Curved shears - for furnishings, eyebrows, skirt, ears
15 Blade - stomach, butt, inside of back legs, paws and ears
10 blade - Body, head, chest
Kwik Stop - (if you make a nail bleed)
Flying Pig Dryer - professional dryer
Table & Arm
Our puppies eat Smallbatch Sliders Freeze Dried Lamb. It is a raw, freeze-dried food made with very high-quality ingredients that are FDA human grade and organic, meaning they are fit for human consumption and have no hormones or chemicals. MANY dog food brands are not. Meaning their protein source can be sick, diseased, expired meats or they substitute actual meats for fillers like cheap grains, etc. Small-batch is 78% lamb, 20% Vegetables, and 2% supplements. This is real raw food, nothing processed. Small-batch also has a low-fat content which is important for schnauzers who are prone to being overweight. #1 rule and the worst thing you can do for your schnauzer is letting them get obese. There is a slew of health issues that Schnauzers are prone to getting due to them being overweight. Each dog has a different metabolism; some require more to keep a healthy weight, and others require less. Below is a link to info and a diagram that shows you how to assess your pup for BCS (body condition score). Please take the time to read this webpage and learn how to properly score your pup so you can help them maintain a healthy weight throughout their lives. For schnauzers being overweight can be an early death sentence and should be taken seriously.
#2 I am a FIRM believer in getting out of your dog what you put into it. Studies are showing the rise in chronic degenerative diseases, auto-immune diseases, allergies, kidney, pancreatic, liver disease, and cancer rates within the pet populations continue to rise since feeding our dogs kibble. It’s not what their bodies are meant to process. Even down to skin and teeth issues. Many schnauzers develop allergies that display in the form of ear infections and/or flaky, itchy skin due to the preservatives/starches/fillers in kibble. Kibbles are packed full of starch to hold the pieces together. And dogs don’t have the enzyme amylase to break down heavy sugars and carbohydrates. This leads to rapid plaque and tartar buildup on your dog's teeth. Schnauzers already don’t have the best teeth genetically. Quality food helps this. Depending on the puppy, I feed them about 6-8 sliders daily, split into two meals. I crush the sliders and feed them dry with water available. When they hit six months to a year and their rapid growth slows, I often back down on the amount I'm feeding. I have adults that eat about 5-7 a day. Puppies need more as they are growing quickly. Below is a link to the Smallbatch food. I primarily feed the lamb but often mix chicken, turkey, or beef as well; the puppies do well on all of them. For those looking for a more cost-effective option, I suggest feeding half kibble mixed with half Smallbatch Sliders. I've provided a link to a quality brand we've used in the past; its made in the USA in an FDA-inspected facility, using locally sourced and human-grade proteins. Eagle pack has never had a recall to date. I recommend kibbles as a last resort, but this brand Is the best I've found.
I always suggest crate training your puppy. Dogs are den animals, and their crate will become their safe place. Not only is it a great tool for potty training. But the crate is a good place to put your pup when you can’t keep your eyes on them while you cook, work, etc. You can throw their chew toys in with them to keep them occupied. The first months are critical in setting rules and boundaries with your pup. Were to go to the bathroom, what belongs to them and what belongs to you. The more often they have accidents in the house and or chew on things that are not theirs, the longer it takes to correct and set these rules. Putting them in their crate at night and when you are away/unable to watch them, it ensures that they stay safe and do not get into potentially harmful things (chewing on cords, swallowing random objects, etc). The Amazon link is to the crate we use with our dogs, the 24-in w/ divider. As a pup, you put the divider in to make their space smaller, so they are less likely to soil in one corner and sleep in the other. Less space makes them want to hold it and not soil where they stand and sleep at night. I put the divider in the middle so they have enough room to move in a circle comfortably and lay down. After a couple of weeks with no accidents, I move the divider to 3/4 of the way and then, with a few more weeks, completely remove it if they are fully holding it through the night with no issues.
The American Heartworm Society recommends that you start heartworm prevention for puppies at 8 weeks of age and keep them on it year-round. Heartworm disease has been diagnosed in all 50 states and is spread through mosquitoes. At your first vet appointment, you will want to have your vet give you a 6-month to a year supply of heartworm to start your puppy on. It’s a pill they take once a month.
Below is the link to two videos I made that go over everything I usually tell families when they come to get their puppy about training, vet record, puppy pack etc. When you have the time, PLEASE watch the videos; they should answer many questions.
-Video Part 1
-Video Part 2
Out of state - Flight Nanny
If you are out of state and plan to fly into AZ, we can meet you at Phoenix Sky Harbor Airport and drop your puppy to you at baggage so you can jump back on a return flight (please check with us before booking a flight to ensure we can meet the day you fly). We also have a flight nanny who can fly to your nearest airport with your pup and meet you. The flight nanny usually costs $400-$1500, depending on flight cost and time of year. Please let me know if you’d like to work out one of these options for your puppy.
Puppy Training Video
This is my all-time favorite dog trainer and the best all-around video that goes over basic things to do with your puppy that helps raise a well-rounded adult dog. Cesar Milan takes four puppies and shows everything he does with them over the first year of life. One of the dogs in the video is a Schnauzer puppy. Most important to note with this video is how to read your dog's body language and recognize your energy and how it can affect your puppy's behavior. Please watch this; it’s a great video! He also has a great book that goes along with this episode with more details on raising your puppy.
-Raising The Perfect Puppy Video
It’s easy for dogs to get ear infections after baths if they get any moisture in their ears or if they swim and get wet often. This is a great product to put in ears any time they are bathed or get wet to ensure their ear canal stays dry. It’s also good for routine cleaning in between grooming. Leaves their ears smelling fresh! Ensure your groomer pulls the hair from your schnauzer's ears to keep them open and clean in between grooming. An ear full of hair easily traps moisture, leaving way for bacteria and yeast to grow.
Below is the link to the Types of puppy beds our puppies are used to using in our home and their pens. The first link is to the donut bed, a favorite around the house for puppies and adults. The last two are great opinions that fit in the crate linked above.
This is the type of litter pan the puppies use. easy access to jump in and do their business. don't be surprised if they sometimes play or fall asleep in there; kids will be kids. I fill the litter pan about 1-1.5 inches high. If the box looks sparse from pellets you've scooped out but what remains looks fresh and clean, just dump more pellets in the box. If the pellets all around are looking broken down or soiled, throw them all out and refill them. We have a lot of people in apartments that use the litterbox long-term in the house or on the patio with their adult schnauzers. You do not have to use the litterbox at all and can move right to housebreaking once home. This is an option for those that feel having it would be beneficial to your lifestyle.
All our puppies come home with a metal comb. This comb is great for brushing and teaching puppies patients and is best for brushing their faces. But as they get bigger and have more hair, I HIGHLY recommend this slicker brush if you wish to keep them in coat with furnishings, skirt, and beard. It cuts brushing time down to a quick couple of minutes and loosens matted coats very well.
Schnauzers are a breed known for having bad teeth. It’s recommended to have your vet clean them every 2/3 years, depending on their condition, if you don’t brush them yourself. This prevents them from having to have many teeth pulled when older. My vet recommends wrapping gauze around your finger or using a finger toothbrush (linked below) and running it quickly over their teeth daily. Dogs on kibble are prone to have more issues with build-up on their teeth. Kibbles are made with a high percentage (30% to 70%) of carbohydrates/starches to make the kibble stick together, and these are bad for their teeth. Each dog is different. I have some that have never needed cleaning in 8 years and others that need it every 2-3 years. Below is a link to a dog toothbrush if you want to keep up on their oral high-gene this way.
Paper Pellet Cat Litter
This is the brand of paper litter we use with our pups. These pellets are the smell they are used to and know to use as their bathroom. By 8 weeks, our puppies are pretty good about using the litterbox. Some are better than others in their aim. But they are all about 90-95% going in the box. Sometimes front paws make it in, and they go with the back end still out, just remember they are babies accidents might still happen.
You will want to schedule your first vet appointment in advance to have it within 3 days of picking up your pup per our health guarantee. Many vets are very booked out or not accepting new clients since COVID. I aim to have all my puppies vaccinated between 7 to 8 weeks of age. They need a total of 3 booster shots so they are fully immune and ready to explore the world. Shots should be scheduled 3 weeks apart. The second shot will be needed between 10-11 weeks and then 13-14 weeks. After that, they will need their rabies shot per state law. My vet usually gives the rabies shot when they are in for spay/neuter. Spay and neuter typically happen around 6-12 months before or around sexual maturity. At about 6-8 months, females usually come into their first heat cycles, and males begin lifting their legs to mark when urinating versus squatting like females. Puppies lose all their baby teeth over the first 8-12 months; this is why they are so mouthy as pups. Sometimes baby teeth don’t fall out as they should. In case of this, be sure your vet checks for any retained teeth before spay/neuter as they can be easily removed while they are under anesthesia. This is the basic rundown of the first year with a puppy. State law requires rabies shots every three years from here. Most vets push annual booster shots, which is not backed by current sciences. Most dogs have 7 years to lifetime immunity from their first booster shots. I recommend titer testing your pup yearly to check for immunity before vaccinating. Below is an article that gives more information on that practice.
-Over Vaccination Info of Dogs
For those that don’t like the idea of a crate or will have to leave their puppy for 8+ hours or longer a day (for work/errands etc), a playpen is a nice alternative (or addition to) a crate as a safe place for your pup. Our puppies are litter box trained like cats, so you can leave them in their pen with access to the restroom as well as food and water if need be and they do pretty good about using the box and keeping clean. This setup allows them to be self-sufficient while you are away and able to still run around a bit. If you want more space you can order two additional panels and they will all hook together.
our puppies are between 2.5-4.5lb when they go home, which means they need a tiny 6-7in collar. Below are two types of collars that come in smaller sizes. One is rolled leather, and the other is nylon. Next is two different leashes. typically you don't want to start leash-breaking a puppy and taking them on walks until they are well attached to you and have all vaccines. I recommend using a slip lead to teaching your puppy to walk properly. I don't recommend harnesses or retractable leashes. Harnesses encourage dogs to pull against the lead, and retractable leashes lack control, giving no direction or discipline to the walk. A slip lead is a very effective tool to correctly teach your pup to walk properly and respectfully at your side, allowing you to lead the walk. If you choose the slip lead, please watch the video in the training links on how to use it properly. Also linked is a normal nylon leash. in the puppy training videos further down, the trainer suggests always leaving a house lead on your puppy while at home; this leash is perfect as a house lead.
Please take the time to read everything, look at all the links and watch all the videos. Below are any and all things you need to know about your puppy before bringing them home. You do not need everything listed below; this is a compiled list of all my recommendations, I’m typically asked about. Each family's setup and situation are different for their pup. After you’ve gone through everything and watched the videos, don’t hesitate with any questions!!
I do not suggest treats in a bag from a grocery store like Walmart etc. These are full of processed junk and are not good for your puppy. There are many natural fruits and veggies that are healthy and will add to your pup's daily nutrition. My dogs love blueberries, carrots, apple slices, pumpkin, coconut oil, and fish oil. The links below list dog-friendly veggies and fruits. All of my dogs eat a fish oil pill daily as a treat, as recommended by my vet. It’s fantastic for their hair and skin; my dogs love it. You can break it over puppy food to get them used to it for a few weeks and then offer it whole. All my adults eat it as a treat. Usually, pups will eat it by the 12-16 week mark. For a training aid and or everyday treat, I put a link to JerkyBites my dogs LOVE them, and they are 95% meat and organs air-dried into jerky for dogs. For a bigger bag, you can get the Maxmeats line it comes in lamb, beef, or chicken. This adds to their daily nutrition and is made with 100% natural ingredients. They also have them in chicken.
For chewing treats that last I've added three options my dogs like. My dogs love bully sticks all our pups come home with one so you will find out if they like them right away. They last them and are good for their gums and teeth to chew on. also listed are Yak Chews and Elk Antlers another option as they grow to keep them busy. Please DO NOT feed your pup the cheap white rawhide bones from the grocery store; they are bleached, processed, and glued together and can cause blockage requiring surgery. All the treats linked below add to your pup's nutrition. Also remember if you give lots of treats during the day to cut back a bit of their food during feeding times.
Shampoo & Conditioner
I recommend the John Paul shampoo with oatmeal as it is soothing on their skin. Also, schnauzers' hair is much like humans; you ALWAYS need to condition their hair to restore the oils that were stripped away with the dirt during the bath. This helps keep their hair soft, healthy, and easier to brush. The super bright shampoo helps brighten white areas. Unfortunately, mouth and foot staining can be almost impossible to remove in some dogs
and can be caused by a variety of things, like the high mineral content of the water they drink, the content of the food they eat, as well as their saliva and tears. Dog's tears, saliva, and urine all contain porphyrins; when porphyrin-containing tears or saliva sits on white fur for any length of time, stains result. So some dogs naturally have more staining than others based on the porphyrin excreted by their body and the amount of licking they do. For eye, beard, and feet stains, you can try mixing together one quart of 3 percent hydrogen peroxide, a quarter cup of baking soda, and one teaspoon of liquid dishwashing soap. Apply this solution to the stain and let it sit for 30 minutes before rinsing off with clean water. Follow with conditioning! Make sure to test a small area first with this mixture to ensure your dog doesn't have an allergic reaction. Not all stains can be removed, but this mixture is a better bet than many products you can buy online.